A trip to Retorbido

The village of Retorbido stretches in Oltrepò Pavese between the plains and the hills, along the right bank of the Rile stream, which was diverted out of the town centre at the end of the 19th century to prevent continuous flooding.
This watercourse springs from Monte Lupo below Rocca Susella and runs through the entire valley to which it gives its name. At Retorbido it is artificially diverted and then flows into the waters of the Staffora stream.

Garlassolo di Sopra, Malpensata, Murisasco and Spinosa are hamlets of the municipality of Retorbido.

Cover image taken from the Facebook page of the Municipality of Retorbido

A journey through history

Together with nearby Casteggio, the Roman historian Titus Livius mentioned the Ligurian oppidum (i.e. fortified settlement) of Litubium, a town known for its waterways (‘Oppida Clastidium et Litubium’): it is believed that the present village of Retorbido may correspond to this very town, with the name Riturbio.
⛲It then took the name Retorbido, due to the waters of the Rile stream, which became turbid in the vicinity of the village itself as it received sulphurous, magnesic and ferruginous waters from the ancient local curative springs, appreciated since Roman times.

👑In 972, the village is mentioned in Emperor Otto’s donations to the Pavia monastery of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro.
Over the centuries, Retorbido was disputed between Pavia and the diocese of Tortona, passing under various seigniories, including the Dal Verme, Riario, Beccaria and Durazzo Pallavicini families.

A trip to Retorbido

Art and Architecture

In the heart of the village, in the square, stands the church of Sant’Andrea, of ancient origins, with a brick and stone façade and a bell tower dominating the apse. Continuing on, you reach Palazzo Durazzo Pallavicini, an elegant 18th-century neoclassical building surrounded by a large garden with steps. On the hill opposite, the parish church of the Beata Vergine Maria with its neoclassical façade from 1882 houses valuable works of art.

Traditions and Legends

👨‍🌾Il village of Retorbido is linked to the legendary figure of Bertoldo, the cunning peasant protagonist of the works of Giulio Cesare Croce. According to tradition, Bertoldo was born in the hamlet of Cà Bertuggia di Murisasco and entertained the Lombard king Alboino with his wiles. In the village, an artistic itinerary celebrates this legend with statues such as ‘Alboino casts the crown’, by Marco Lodola – a famous artist from Pavia, author of iconic works of the New Futurism – and ‘Bertoldo on the donkey’, by painter Piero Leddi.

Unmissable Events

Every second Sunday in March, the town hosts the long-awaited Sagra del Polentone di Retorbido, a much-loved country festival dedicated to Bertoldo, with costumed parades, stalls and, of course, the ever-present distribution of polenta.
It is an opportunity to immerse oneself in local traditions and savour the gastronomic delights of the Oltrepò Pavese.
Even tourists in camper vans can comfortably access the event, thanks to a parking point near the sports field, just a few steps from the town centre.

Nature and Relaxation

For hiking enthusiasts, nearby Colle delle Torricelle is home to the Orange Giant Bench No. 124, the first Big Bench installed in Oltrepò.
An ideal place to get away from it all while admiring the beautiful vineyards, villages and hills of the area.

Local flavours

The cuisine of Retorbido offers traditional local dishes such as the aforementioned polenta, stew ravioli and malfatti, accompanied by typical Oltrepò Pavese wines.

🍷Those who appreciate wines can pay a visit to the Marchese Adorno Winery.
🍯For honey lovers,‘Orange Apicoltura‘ offers a variety of artisanal products.
🍔Hamburger lovers will find plenty of choice at Re Manzo Hamburgeria, while those on a vegan diet will find vegan pizzas on the menu at Al Desco Pizzeria Gourmet .

Retorbido is an unmissable stop for an out-of-town trip in which to relive history, breathe in traditions, admire nature and savour the gastronomic delights of the Oltrepò Pavese.