Voghera’s mostarda: an ancient tradition rich in taste and colors

Voghera’s mostarda is a sweet and spicy specialty that compains various dishes of the Pavesian’s cuisine, especially in the winter months. It is in all respects a typical product of local gastronomy with very ancient origins and is linked to the history and culture of the city of Voghera , a “comune” in the Oltrepò Pavese.

If it is candied fruit … why is mustard spicy ?
It is because it’s immersed in a mustard-flavored syrup.

How many types of “mostarda” are there?

In Lombardia, in addition to the mostarda vogherese, the mostarda cremonese is made with mixed fruit. By the other hand the mostarda mantovana made out of apples and other ingredients are produced. In Veneto the mostarda of quince is traditional, in Piedmont the one made with grapes liquid is sweeter, as well as the mostarda toscana and the mostarda bolognese, which also requires lemon juice.

The Mostarda of Voghera is distinguished from the Mantuan’s one by the presence of mixed whole fruit and from the one of Cremona by the greater balance between the sweet and spicy taste.

There are mostardas with whole fruits, those with pieces of fruit and those with blended fruit pulp of apples, pears, figs and even those with vegetables such as pumpkin, peppers, cherry tomatoes.You can even find mostardas with actual mustard syrup, more delicate, and those with a more marked spicy flavor, due to the presence of mustard grains.

Images taken from the Facebook page Pianetta di Barbieri & C

The first evidence of Voghera mostarda dates back to the 15th century. It was considered a delicacy for the most refined palates.

The original recipe was based on fruits such as apples, pears, figs, plums, apricots and cherries , first peeled, then left to macerate in water and sugar for several days.

The fruit was then cooked in a solution of water, sugar and mustard until it reached the desired consistency and flavour. The mostarda obtained was stored in hermetically sealed glass or earthenware jars and stored in cool, dry places.

In mostarda, other fruits such as kiwi, peaches and mandarins are also commonly found .

Image taken from the Facebook page Pianetta di Barbieri & C

How do you pair Voghera mostarda?

There are many combinations, for example, they are good combined with cheese. Tasty cheeses like Pecorino, Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano, make a excelent combination with mandarin and orange mostardas.Pear mostarda, on the other hand, enhances a brie or a sweet gorgonzola cheese. For a soft cheese like crescenza, cherries and figs mostardas are excellent.

A great classic is the combination of mixed fruit mostardas with boiled meats and cotechino.

Then there are also less usual combinations: how about pumpkin tortelli or four-cheese gnocchi? Fried gnocco with cured meats and mixed fruit mostarda cut into cubes?
Or, what about a risotto with taleggio or mascarpone with chopped pear mostarda?
A roast with coarsely crumbled apricot mostarda is also not bad.

Today, Voghera’s mostarda is still produced according to the ancient recipe and in an artisanal way. The Barbieri family , who has been running the Pianetta company since 1977 , for example, carefully selects the raw materials and works on manual packaging. Production is mainly made to order, so as to guarantee the quality and freshness of the product. Also their chestnut mostarda is also very delicious.

Images taken from the Facebook page Pianetta di Barbieri & C

Where can you buy Voghera mustard?

In addition to the Pianetta company itself, in Voghera there are delicatessens shops that are retailers of them like:

• Arnone Specialità alimentari
• Drogheria Leardi
• Maccagni

We have given you suggestions for your dishes and information on where to buy the original Vogherese mostarda. Once you have bought it on one of your trips to the Oltrepò Pavese, it will be up to you to take the challenge to thy them with other more unusual combinations !